Where to buy Oysters in Leeds

HAYES SEAFOOD, serving the people of Leeds since 1880

 

When my sister and I were children we’d go on shopping trips to Doncaster market with our mum. We didn’t choose sweets as a reward for being good, we preferred to stink the bus ride home out with a bag of cockles, prawns or mussels doused in malt vinegar from the still brilliant Doncaster fish market.

 

So, when I met my friend, Johnny last weekend in Leeds, for a trip to the market, the first place we headed was Hayes Seafood and Oyster bar for our Saturday treat.

 

Hayes was established in 1880 and specialises in live oysters and freshly boiled crabs. We ordered three oysters each to start with. They were served with the traditional finely diced shallots in red wine vinegar.

 

Oysters have been eaten in the UK since the Mesolithic period and later were very popular in Roman Britain. By the mid 19^th to  20^thcentury they were an affordable protein for the lower classes. Often used to bulk up sausages and stuffing and even put in pies. I have an Original Mrs Beeton’s cookbook that has a recipe for beef and oyster pie.

By the mid 20^thcentury they became so overfished and scarce, the price was driven up and they became a luxury item.

Nowadays, you can find oysters on the menu of many fancy establishments. However, it’s places like Hayes Seafood that keep oysters accessible to all walks of life.

 

Cliff and Michelle Hocken, give a warm welcome and have owned the stall since 1984. Cliff was originally in the motor trade. Back then, Michelle’s parents had a leather goods stall in Leeds market.  They knew the previous owner was thinking of selling up and suggested that Cliff and Michelle buy it. When Cliff told me this I asked him did you like oysters before you bought this place? He replied, “I did…but not as much as I do now, I still eat them every day”

 

We ordered a mix of the larger, Cumbrae oysters and smaller ones from Lindisfarne. The larger being zinckier and saltier than the mild and sweet smaller ones.  The oysters arrived on a lovely silver plate with indents for oysters. Beautifully presented and so fresh and delicious. I asked Cliff where he got the plates and that’s how we ended up getting into a conversation about the market and I decided to write about the place.

The  friend I was with and 99% of the time I am with on my food hunting adventures, Johnny Clasper  is a sculptor, (he’s amazing check out his work here) Johnny asked Cliff to save his shells to make something with and Cliff even gave him advice how to process the shells to bring the colour out.

“The market is a wonderful place to write about” said Michelle when I asked if they’d mind telling me their story. I love meeting people whose eyes light up with pride when you ask them about their work. Michelle’s eyes are particularly blue and stunning.

“What I love about the shop is every day is a different day and we get to meet people from all over the world, Gordon Brown has been here, Brian Turner has been many times we’ve been featured in the times, the guardian and even a play at the playhouse”, Cliff added.

Michelle went on to say that she was listening in to Gordon Brown on radio Leeds. He was talking about markets and the problems traders were facing at the time.  Andrew Edwards was presenting and asked listeners to phone in with questions. Michelle rang and suggested to the then Prime Minister, “Instead of talking about the market on the radio why don’t you actually get down here and see what it’s really about and meet the traders” “Never in a million years did I expect him to turn up”

 

The couple showed me the photo and various other old photos. We ordered more Oysters and got chatting to a couple of customers sat on the other serving bar, “We come every week, coming to Leeds market is a social occasion, we know everybody. My wife has been coming for 60 years.”

I could have quite happily, sat there all day  but it’s a busy place and I didn’t want to hold Michelle and Cliff up any longer.

Small independents as I know too well can be precarious. I enquired if they were doing ok. Thankfully they are. Michelle talked about how they managed to survive covid, by having a really good pick up and one-way system in place. We talked also about the future. How we are both noticing a resurgence of people shopping at markets and a renewed interest in British food. How the market is no longer the place for the older generations. They get a lot of custom from international students from Leeds university.  Michelle described how teachers are bringing children for class trips and teaching them about provenance, they are going back to their parents saying please can we go to the market and not the supermarket.

We are extremely fortunate to have Leeds Market, the biggest indoor market in Europe. So next time you’re in Leeds, head to the market, see the original penny bazaar Marks and Spencer’s, look up and admire all the beautiful features. Then make a visit to Hayes, pull up a stool and try an oyster at £1.70 each you can buy one, six or a dozen. Let me know what you think.

Hayes Seafood is located in Leeds Kirkgate Market, Leeds, LS2 7HL Tel 0113 245 6028